ink flamingos. You thought they existed only on suburban front lawns, at the Hialeah racetrack, and in a John Waters' movie, but these shy and gangly birds flock to Bonaire, a gem of an island off the Venezuelan coast. So do divers. Bonaire is one of the top dive destinations in the Caribbean, and in the world. Thanks to forward-thinking pioneers who started the movement to protect the island's fringing reefs back in 1971. This culminated with all the reefs surrounding Bonaire and Klein Bonaire being declared the Bonaire Marine Park in 1979, these waters are teeming with marine life: queen angelfish, rock beauties, parrot fish, blue tangs, grouper, tarpon, octopus, sea turtles, coral, sponges, sea anemones, urchins, eels, and more. Bonaire's corals are relatively pristine, although surveys have shown some bleaching, attributed to an unusual warming of the seawaters in 1995. In 1994 the islanders' efforts were recognized when Bonaire won Island magazine's prestigious eco-tourism award. Bonaire's license plates declare it a "Diver's Paradise," and we strongly agree.

Like the other islands in the Lesser Antilles, Bonaire is arid. It has a few nice beaches on the southern end of the island and one on the northern tip. Washington-Slagbaai National Park occupies 20 percent of the land and has become a draw for eco-travelers. Prehistoric-looking iguanas and green parrots are frequently encountered on walks or bike rides on this small island. You'll also find lots of cactus and huge salt ponds. Bonaire lies outside the hurricane belt and gets only a few showers a year, which helps explain the crystal-clear waters that offer visibility up to 160 feet. The constantly blowing winds make the heat bearable. Even without the western side's incredible reefs and those ringing Klein Bonaire (an uninhabited islet off Bonaire's coast), this place would be a pleasant, low-key, quiet escape. Bonaire's ambience is wonderfully laid-back. Locals - typically a mix of European, African, and Arawak descent - are hospitable and accommodating. The diving elevates this place to heaven for those of us who go down, and the addition of several guided snorkeling sites makes it terrific for nondivers too.

You'll notice a strange language being spoken here, which sounds a lot like Spanish. It's Papiamento, a native dialect that combines Spanish, Dutch, and Portuguese with some African and Arawak words thrown in. (It's spoken on Aruba too.) If you understand Spanish, you should get the gist of it. Most locals speak at least four languages: Papiamento, Dutch (the official language), English, and Spanish.