e had just missed the last flight from Fajardo to Culebra. A split-second decision to charter a plane, and off we went on a six-seater Britten Islander. It was a dramatic exit. But that was nothing compared to what greeted us upon our arrival. Our "limo" was a beat-up old VW van, with no door and two plastic deck chairs for seats. Our hostess was an American woman with twelve children who lived in a trailer where goats came and went through it and had eaten most of the upholstery. Welcome to Culebra - the land of the very laid-back.

Culebra is a small and simple island. Politically part of the Commonwealth of Puerto Rico, it is light years away from the fast pace of San Juan. Although Spanish is the primary language here, English is spoken everywhere. The main village on the island is Dewey, named for Admiral George Dewey, an American hero of the Spanish-American War. This is where the ferry docks and where the post office and most of the commerce are located. There are only a few hundred guest/hotel rooms on the island, a few good restaurants, and no nightclubs, discos, or casinos. The pace is slow, slow, slow! Overall, one gets the impression that this is what the Caribbean used to be like. Indeed, Culebrenses - as residents are called - are very covetous of their way of life and are very suspect of any change, or "progress." Their attitude is one of "leave us alone." So far, they've been successful. Actually, hurricanes Hugo (1989), Luís (1995), and Georges (1998) have helped out their cause tremendously by hurting the flourishing tourist trade both in damaged accommodations and bad publicity.

Culebra is not a lush, verdant island. Rather, it's very dry and arid. But its star attraction, besides its unspoiledness, is its beaches - some of the most beautiful in the Caribbean. One of our top ten Caribbean beaches, Flamenco, is here on Culebra. On a busy day, there is always lots of space on this huge stretch of blindingly white sand.

Culebra is not for everyone. It's rustic, and if you expect to be pampered or entertained, forget it, it's not for you. But if you don't mind simple accommodations, cooking for yourself a lot or eating at mostly simple restaurants, and tons of quiet, then you'll love it. Probably the best analogy is that of a Cinderella who didn't want to go the ball. She purposely stays out of the spotlight cast on her star step-sisters, Puerto Rico and St. Thomas, loving the solitude. She is one of the Caribbean's best-kept secrets - an island where the pace is that of yesteryear, the beaches are gorgeous, and the attitude non-existent.