renada is wonderfully evocative. Nicknamed the "Isle of Spice," the land is redolent with the cloves, allspice, cinnamon, and, especially, nutmeg that grow throughout its hillsides. The island's tranquil natural assets of lush tropical vegetation, gushing rivers, scenic mountains, and coastline are powerful, and do much to overcome the memory of political turmoil and a bullyish American invasion in 1983.

Grenada is a great place to visit if you want to hike and immerse yourself in its people and past. The country still has a bantam, out-of-the-way disposition, which makes the island a good choice for vacationers who don't care to follow in the footsteps of a million cruise-ship passengers. There is one excellent beach (Grand Anse) and a trove of smaller coves, while the island's ruffled interior beckons with hiking opportunities. Outside the primary tourist areas of Grand Anse, L'Anse aux Epines, and St. George's (the capital), you begin to experience the real Grenada. Vivid images come to mind of women washing clothes in a river, potholed roads, spice stations, rich hues of green, and the ever-watchful eyes of the people, who are among the region's friendliest hosts.

The country (which includes the neighboring islands of Carriacou and Petit Martinique to the north) is a popular destination for Europeans, particularly Germans, Brits, and Italians. But Americans are increasingly discovering this special island. Most who visit here rarely venture into the island, which is a shame for them. Grenada appeals to the adventurous traveler (our readers, we hope) as they discover so much more than what you'll see around the hotels.