t happens only once in a great while, especially to those as jaded as us: a discovery, a special place of countless beaches, sand roads, friendly people, great food and drink, inexpensive lodgings, no resorts, no cars, no cruise ships, and few tourists. Is it possible to find this in the Caribbean as we enter the next millennium? ¡Si, señores! You'll find it in Los Roques, an archipelago of sandy coral islands eighty-four miles north of the central coast of Venezuela.

Officially called the Parque Nacional Archipiélago de Los Roques (The Rocks Archipelago National Park) and part of the Republic of Venezuela, the only rocks you'll see here are the rugged cliffs on the volcanic El Gran Roque - the highest and most populated of the forty-two-island archipelago. All of the other islands are sandy, coral keys or islets, created from the rise and fall of sea level since the beginning of the Pleistocene period (about 15,000 to 19,000 years ago, for the scientifically deficient like us). These islets and the shallow bay that encompasses the archipelago sit on a volcanic "platform" that rises out of the deep. The only volcanic protrusion is the 427-foot summit on El Gran Roque.

Almost all of the population lives on El Gran Roque, and it's also where the guest accommodations and airstrip are located. The local population of 1,800 people and the 240 dwellings absorb about 58,000 visitors a year, many day-trippers from Caracas and the mainland. With this influx of visitors, many homes have been turned into guest houses (posadas) and tourism is replacing fishing as the economic mainstay of Los Roques. Still, the feeling here is distinctly non-touristo. Most visitors are from Venezuela or Italy, a surprising combination. Actually, we've found Italians all over the Caribbean these days, especially in less traveled places like this. And where there's an Italian market there is good food (a prerequisite for them to visit any vacation spot).

Situated just eleven feet above the Equator and lacking mountains to catch clouds and rain, Los Roques is very sunny, hot, and dry. Fortunately cooling trade winds blow consistently and vigorously most of the year. Since El Gran Roque lacks good beaches, speedboats zip guests around to various beaches on other islets. The coral sand on them is very white, so sunburn and sun protection are big factors here. There are few shade trees on most of the keys, but your posada will set up a canopy and beach chairs for shade. They also provide lunch and refreshments. Generally boat trips leave El Gran Roque around 10:30 or 11:00 A.M. and return around 4:00 P.M. Don't be surprised to find that you're on a deserted beach at noon and everyone in your party (usually from six to ten people) is crammed under the canopy, as the sun is just scorching. It's a good way to get to know your fellow travelers.