ercedeses and BMWs whizzing by on the freeway, haute couture on the streets, high-rise residential areas in a cosmopolitan city, gourmet restaurants galore, huge shopping centers left and right - this is the Caribbean? You bet, because this is Martinique, the polished jewel in the French-Caribbean necklace.

Of the French West Indies (there are four main islands, including Guadeloupe, St. Barts, and St. Martin), Martinique is the most French and the most sophisticated - the name of the capital says it all: Fort-de-France. Martinique is an extension of France, albeit with a tropical setting. The look and feel of this island - from the great road and highway system, to the billboards advertising Gauloise cigarettes, to the gendarmes directing traffic in the capital - mandate that you "dîtes bonjour".

Most English-speaking travelers to Martinique are Francophiles (see "Focus on Martinique"in the book) who want to indulge in the language and culture, eat great food, and get a tan while they're at it. As on Guadeloupe, most of the visitors are from France, some on package tours, some on business, and some vacationing at their villas. Like an American in Paris, if you don't speak French you're going to encounter some of the classic French brusqueness here. But if you try to speak the language, the Martiniquaise warm right up and are very helpful.

Beyond the language and culture, Martinique is also among the most beautiful of Caribbean isles, particularly its deep-green rain forests tucked between dramatic ridges and spires. There are brilliant white-sand beaches classically shaded by palm trees in the south, and seductive black-sand coves navigated by fishermen in the north. Lovingly tended gardens filled with tropical flora are found throughout the island, but especially at the exquisite Jardin de Balata, which overlooks the capital from the foot of the dramatic Pitons du Carbet. With its surfeit of history, great food, and sightseeing that could fill a week or more, Martinique adds up to a well-rounded package that is one of the region's most appealing and accessible.