You're probably reading this month's newsletter at the height of high season and you're ready for the latest on St. Barts or Barbados or Jamaica. But bear with us for a moment as we delve into a few troubled, but equally exotic places.

And which destination should be at the top of the news? None other than the one you aren't even supposed to visit: Cuba. Unfortunately, the ugly row over six-year-old Elián Gonzalez has yet to be resolved – a nasty tug-of-war between his father in Cuba and his Castro-hating Miami relatives. For those who don't know about him, he's the serendipitous child who escaped tragic drowning - his mother, her boyfriend and others didn't - en route to Florida by clinging to an inner tube for two days. In this election year, he has become a political football between Washington, Havana and Florida's anti-Castro Cuban exiles. While certainly not as sensational, the other news of Cuba is also intriguing.

First off, Marazul Tours of Weehawken, N.J. started charter flights from New York's JFK to Havana on December 4. Contrary to popular belief, there have been charter flights out of Miami (via Marazul) for many years - most of the seats are taken by Cubans visiting relatives (and if you think this flight is covert, done in the dark of night, using some ancient Soviet aircraft, we recall our first trip to Cuba with Marazul was aboard a packed Eastern Airlines jet that departed from a regular Miami Airport gate). If you want to visit Cuba before the eventual flood of Americans arrives, 2000 is the year - we're betting that normalized relations will be on the agenda for the tail end of Clinton's term. To set up a trip with Marazul, call (800) 223-5334, or check www.marazultours.com. And, of course, please read the Warning for U.S. Citizens on page 117 of R&R before booking a trip to this controversial destination.

The U.S. State Department recently unveiled an unusually politicized web site devoted to Cuba. Unlike State Department sites devoted to other countries, Cuba's includes photos - of living and working conditions, not sunny beaches! - underlined by opinionated captions that reflect on local hardships caused by "a repressive regime." A photo of Cubans bicycling reads: "As the transportation sector deteriorated, Cuba's love affair with the automobile was replaced by resignation to the bicycle." Argh! But the site also contains extensive information on travel to Cuba, discussing the licenses required for American citizens, entry requirements and currency regulations. Definitely worth checking out, at www.state.gov/www/regions/wha/cuba.

Another distressed country is undergoing transition. But then, Haiti never stands still for long, so why should a little exercise in democracy be a cause for alarm? The nation has scheduled legislative elections for March, and the hope is that two years of political turmoil will come to an end. (The current crisis escalated last January when President René Preval shut down the Parliament and designated a new prime minister by decree - the ensuing fallout resulted in scaled-back foreign investment and foreign aid.) Of equal concern to Haiti travelers is that the United Nations is in the process of closing down its civilian police mission, while the United States is withdrawing the last of its 450 troops stationed in Haiti. The U.N. is planning to create a broader program to work on long-term development and assistance, so perhaps the country can turn a favorable corner? For years, the unrest in Haiti has lead its fans to say "stay tuned" - the arrival of 2000 promises no less.

After almost two years of decreased activity, Montserrat's volcano is alive once again! The crater at Soufriere Hills stopped producing new lava in March 1998 - the occasional eruptions that have occurred since then were the result of the cooling lava dome collapsing down the slopes. Residents began to move back to the island and were rebuilding their lives. But in late November 1999, scientists announced that a new lava dome was growing in the crater. While relatively small (over 200 feet high last month) compared to earlier domes, there is great concern that the period of repose that islanders had hoped for may be over indefinitely. We'll keep you apprised of the latest.

Enough of political and disaster reports. We recently toured Barbados, where a cataclysm of a different sort occurred October 24, when the venerable Hilton was blown up - on purpose, that is. The hotel, located just outside Bridgetown, always drew an interesting mix of business and vacation clientele - the bar was a good place to take the pulse of local politics - but the property's prime location was perhaps not well served by Hilton's aging, six-story structure. Hilton will rebuild in the same spot, with an eye to reopen in September, 2001.

While on Barbados, we drove by the construction site that may some day be Sandy Lane. The oh-so-posh resort was supposed to reopen months ago, but the new owners fired their design and construction teams midway through the process, setting the rebuilding back a year or more. Sandy Lane wants the reconstructed hotel to be the region's ne plus ultra in luxury, but local gossip has it that when they saw the four tasteful new Luxury Plantation Suites at nearby Coral Reef Club they realized that Sandy's rooms would need to be more, more, more. . .

A Barbados debut since our last visit is Lone Star Restaurant, Motel and Garage. Yes, you read correctly - garage. The establishment started out as a chic beach restaurant situated behind a 40s-era filling station near Speightstown that somehow escaped a wrecking ball. The restaurant is owned by a team responsible for several trendy London hotspots, and in 1999 they opened four smashing suites to create a hip, boutique hotel (think W décor on a small scale). Our verdict: the rooms are a glam fix of London style that provide a fresh minimalist alternative to the starched marble/floral glory of Barbados' standard bearers. The beach is great and quiet, but service appeared inconsistent and the restaurant was disappointing for dinner (try it for lunch, when dining just off the sand will be most appealing). Rooms rates are BEYOND BELIEF; reservations: (246) 419-0598.

Speaking of Hilton, the 50-year-old San Juan Caribe Hilton reopened on Christmas Day following a $45 million facelift. The 644-room resort - San Juan's largest - was a bit frayed at the edges, so a little nip-and-tuck was overdue. The initial phase of the renovation includes a redesigned lobby and other public areas, refurbished guest rooms, and a spectacular new swimming complex with waterfalls, a Jacuzzi and swim-up bar. Some of the renovation to be completed by summer includes a new restaurant (Morton's of Chicago), a 20,000-square-foot spa, and refurbished meeting/convention space. We particularly like the use of local artisans for paintings, ceramics and sculptures. Rooms are WICKED PRICEY, reservations: (800) HILTONS.

Last but not least, the place perhaps highest on our list to visit this winter is Palm Island, the Grenadines backwater that was bought by Rob Barrett's Antigua Resorts last spring. Barrett gave the 42-room hideaway a $9.5 million infusion of cash resulting in a polished, tranquil refuge for world-weary types. The 130-acre island is bisected by nature trails and ringed by a radiant beach; top rooms are the Coconut Treehouse rooms which are perched on stilts. Incidentally, no word on the rumor we heard that Barrett was also considering buying nearby Saltwhistle Bay Club on Mayreau. Rooms at Palm Island (on an FAP plan) are BEYOND BELIEF; reservations: (800) 345-0356.

See you in February!