Newsletter Archive

hy do we find Anguilla so irresistible? Obviously, the beaches are among the finest in the Caribbean - perhaps no other island has so many in so compact a location. Oh, yes, the culinary scene is unusually good here - it ranks among the handful of islands that produces gourmet cuisine at a variety of locales. Several of our favorite deluxe resorts are also found on Anguilla (more on hotels in a moment). But this island isn't for everyone: life crawls along at a languid pace, there's little in the way of shopping or touring or activities, and the topography is unexciting (actually, it's fairly boring). Yet Anguilla is a delight for someone who really wants to unwind and decompress. Its people are sweet and good-natured, and we like the informality of this place.

We visited Anguilla in October primarily to check out the new CuisinArt Resort. Yes, you read correctly - it's perhaps the first hotel named after a kitchen appliance. The resort sits just west of the middle of Rendezvous Bay, a long, beautiful beach that escaped major development for a number of years. Not anymore. Now a series of ten three-story structures line the sand, housing most of the oversized guest rooms. While the architecture is pretty (think Mykonos) it's hardly discrete: this place shouts nouveau riche and, accordingly, the level of taste involved wavers wildly. On the positive side is a swank entryway that leads to reflecting pools and unusually green (for dry Anguilla) gardens. There is an excellent spa in an unusual but appealing three-story facility (loved the wide, blue glass bowls for pedicures) and the resort's guestrooms are huge, most of which are Junior Suites with great beach views and vast, plush marble bathrooms.

In the couldn't-have-said-it-better-ourselves department, we overheard another travel writer say (though not print) "the cuisine is great, but the art sucks." In fact, the art decorating the lobby and rooms ranges from mediocre to atrocious: a series of gaudy (not Gaudi) oils from contemporary Italians - we've seen better work on black velvet at the Tijuana border crossing. As for the cuisine, most of our meal was pretty good, although the local lobster was overcooked and tough. The resort has its own hydroponics farm for growing veggies and herbs, though the farm was not up-to-speed for the season when we dined. During our meal, more noteworthy than the food was the table immediately next to ours, which contained none other than Mariah Carey, looking particularly luscious, accompanied by a handsome date - a pair of bodyguards lurked just out of sight with cell phones at the ready (gee, and we thought this was a fairly relaxed island). We're not sure why, but before Mariah's entrée could be delivered, she decided the appetizer was enough and bailed for a villa somewhere else on the island, doggy bag in tow.

In sum, CuisinArt will please a certain moneyed clientele that prefers their resorts gleaming with opulence rather than sizzling with taste. For us, chic with a little more soul is our preferred landing. But, if you want to hang with newly-minted Dot-Com Millionaires (and perhaps the occasional diva), CuisinArt might be just the trick. Rates are A SWISS BANK ACCOUNT; reservations: (877) 847-4444.

We couldn't swing through Anguilla without stopping by Cap Juluca, which has spent the last year closed down for costly hurricane repairs. The resort reopened October 28, and the bulk of the repairs focused on rebuilding the eroded dunes at the western end of the beach. This wasn't merely beach restoration - the sand underneath several of the villas had been swept to the east end of Maundays Bay (near Pimm's). So, an 18-foot-high seawall has been buried in front of the west end of the beach and greenery should eventually hide it well enough that it won't be an unsightly blemish for long. Other improvements: a third restaurant has been added adjacent to Pimm's that will serve hors d'ouevres and tapas, a spa facility is being built, and rooms have undergone a full cosmetic overhaul. Until the spa facility is finished in late 2001, "spa and wellness rituals" will be handled in guestrooms, under the direction of Collier and Collier, which created the acclaimed spas for Four Seasons' Bali resorts. The menu of services features a variety of Asian- and Indonesian-influenced treatments, including a Jamu Massage, a Rice and Spice Ritual, and a Sea and Flower Scrub. Mmmm. Of course, rates are still A SWISS BANK ACCOUNT, but Cap Juluca remains one of our favorite Caribbean hideouts; reservations: (888) 858-5822.

We had a nice meal at Tasty's, a quiet new establishment above Sandy Ground in Anguilla, and just discovered by Travel & Leisure, which did a nice write-up in the October issue. Chef/owner Dale got his training at Malliouhana, but he's aiming for something less lofty (but still appealing) at Tasty's and island flavors rule at his informal eatery. This means lots of fresh fish, like steamed potfish with fungi and local "provisions," and a garlic crusted snapper fillet served on crushed pumpkin. Entrees average $15 - we'll be back.

oving down the A-list: Aruba has unveiled the results of a $67 million renovation to Queen Beatrix International Airport. The mammoth facility - now one of the largest in the Caribbean - makes trips to Aruba smooth and relatively hassle-free. It even has a US customs facility which is a real boon to travelers making connections through Miami or other typical ports of entry; on the downside, Aruba is adding a $3.25 surcharge to airline tickets for the convenience of using the facility. Incidentally, we hope you're not holding tickets on Air Aruba - the airline has suspended operations indefinitely because three of its five airplanes have been repossessed and the other two cannot be flown because they are "under heavy maintenance." If you are planning a trip to Aruba, don't fret: United Airlines starts seasonal weekend service November 11 out of Chicago, and US Airways begins service November 12 from Philadelphia (these, in addition to the existing American, Continental, Delta, and TWA service).

he winter season brings on a number of festivities worth mentioning. Puerto Rico's Festival of Masks takes place December 28 in the town of Hatillo, and commemorates the religious significance of the Slaughter of the Innocents; colorful costumes and intricate masks elaborately decorated with beads and feathers are showcased in a parade. Call the Puerto Rico Tourism Company for more info: (800) 866-7827. January 7-17, Antigua will host the sixth annual Challenger Balloon Festival; highlights include daily ballooning competitions, champagne breakfasts, night flights and kite flying. Call Time Out @ Jolly Beach (that's a hotel, not a Web site) for more info and packages: (888) 599-6666.

heck us back in December when we'll devote most of the newsletter to the latest from St. Barthelemy (also known as St. Bart's). You'll get fresh scoop on the places to stay, dishes to eat, and scenes to steal - and you'll never guess who wouldn't eat the lobster waiting to be cooked at her villa.


October Newsletter | December Newsletter