"Let the sunshine in."

hat a different world we live in since compiling last month's newsletter. First off, we offer our sympathies to any readers who may have experienced a direct loss from the diabolical events of September 11. Of course, we are all affected, and perhaps a more appropriate wish for today, three weeks after the attacks, is that life reacquires some semblance of normalcy in the days ahead. We hope, and pray, that tourism as an industry – one that employs millions in the United States alone – will rebound briskly, and not just because it is our livelihood. For it is in experiencing other cultures, other realities beyond the one at home, that we grow in our understanding and appreciation of other peoples, religions, and ways of life. Further, by traveling overseas, we expose these other cultures to who Americans really are as a community – rather than letting our image around the world be defined by Bruce Willis movies, KFC, McDonald's, our own religious extremists, and… well, you get the point.

his is a newsletter about the Caribbean, and we can think of two island-related issues that may be about to emerge on the front page of your local newspaper – both may cause the region embarrassment. First, just one week before the September 11 tragedy, representatives from three cash-strapped countries met with none other than Col. Moammar Kadafi on his home turf in Tripoli and came home to announce that Libya had pledged $21.5 million in grants, loans and debt relief to these islands. The countries – Dominica, Grenada and St. Vincent and the Grenadines – stressed (prior to the 11th) that this “was not an anti-American position,” and yet the US State Department probably isn't looking too kindly on the idea of Kadafi getting into bed with the Caribbean. After all, isn't Libya on the list of the seven countries that sponsor terrorism? And didn't the US spend untold millions in 1983 by invading Grenada to rid the island of a Marxist regime that was pro-Libyan? The timing of the aid package from Libya couldn't have been worse.

he other issue that may come back to haunt more than one island government is the lax banking policies some of them established to encourage offshore banking (the most famous of these – the Cayman Islands – is home to 590 banks, or one for every 61 residents). The hazy banking rules have made it easy for people to hide or launder drug money and other hoards gathered through illegal activities. So, how many of these offshore banks conceal funds of Osama bin Laden and his ilk? We may never know definitively, but Lester Byrd, the Prime Minister of one long-criticized banking sector, Antigua-Barbuda, said his government will freeze monies held in the accounts of suspected terrorists. Cooperation on this front may not be enough to alleviate the taint of potential blood money.

s might be expected, the Caribbean is reeling from the loss of tourism since the tragedy. Island representatives are frantically reevaluating the outlook for the all-important winter season, creating task forces to deal with airline cutbacks, increased insurance for hotels and regional airlines, and new security costs for resorts and destinations. Many hotels that were operating at a breakeven level may throw in the towel. Cayman Airways has put the kibosh on plans to purchase three new planes for its fleet, and Jamaica, Aruba and Grand Cayman are three of the islands already facing cuts in air service. Barbados is contemplating a package of $10 million in aid for the tourism sector, while Jamaica has announced $8 million in aid for hotels and marketing (we saw the first post-attack ad on September 29 – the Jamaica Tourist Board's official theme song “One Love” never echoed so sweetly). Butch Stewart, chairman of Air Jamaica and the Sandals resort chain said that “if our tourism industry collapses, the entire Jamaican economy will collapse.”

And yet, may we identify the silver lining? September is the absolute slowest month of the year for tourism in the Caribbean, when a number of hotels aren't even open for business (the number of island vacationers impacted by the attacks was at its minimum). Further, the region has experienced an unusually quiet hurricane season – September is usually the peak month, yet at this writing (knock wood) no storm has caused any significant damage so far this year. Could 2001 become the second season in a row that all the islands are spared from having to cope with the fallout from a devastating hurricane?

Tourist arrivals are well below normal right now, but the Caribbean just might rebound more quickly than most other vacation spots. Although many Americans may shift their winter sun-sea-sand vacations to locations closer to home, we think the tradition of a Caribbean sojourn is so well established for many residents of the Northeast that – barring further attacks this year on US soil – the islands will bounce back faster than places like Europe or Asia. And let's face it, the islands themselves are very low on the list of terrorist targets, so we wouldn't hesitate to go to really get away from it all. In the days ahead, airline and hotel packages should start to materialize and offer notable high season values. Move quickly to take advantage of these savings.

f we were to pick one island to escape the din of horrifying news, none would be higher on the list than tiny Saba. We've sung the praises of this sweet little outpost in the pages of R&R and in this newsletter previously, but we just visited in August and our mind seems to gravitate to this spot when we want relief from the daily scouring of CNN. One reason Saba is an escape is because there's precious little news to report. Life evolves at a snail's pace – with less than 25,000 visitors annually, Sabans prefer not to set their sights on a landscape of construction projects. Tourism is largely on Saba's terms: there's no beach on this five-square-mile island, no fancy resorts, and activities are mostly limited to hiking and diving – both of which are among the region's best.

But one sharp new development is taking shape: The Ecolodge Rendez-Vous promises a genuine back-to-nature experience, 1,800 feet above sea level, when it opens in February. There are 12 cabins, constructed from recycled materials and boasting solar power and composting toilets; in keeping with the self-sustaining theme, many of the fruits and vegetables served at the restaurant will be grown on site. The lodge is actually a five-minute walk from the road, so luggage is brought in by hand, or carried by a mule named Eco. Design for the lodge was conceived by Tom Van-Hof, founder of the pacesetting marine parks in Saba, Bonaire and Curaçao, and will be run by his son Bernt Groenen Dyk. Double rates are CHEAP; for bookings call (011-599) 416-3348; or check the web site: www.ecolodge-saba.com.

et's end on an up note. Our most recent trip to the region took us to St. Kitts and Nevis – we'll report on our visit to these islands next month. After the tragedy of September 11, the owner of the Fairview Inn on St. Kitts came up with the novel idea of a week's free vacation for any of the families of firefighters or policemen involved in the rescue and cleanup effort. The offer is valid at any of the two island's hotels, and includes all meals; minister of tourism G.A. Dwyer Astaphan says he is also working on discounted airfare, car rentals, shopping and excursions. Bravo! Now that's a fabulous gesture of compassion and, we have to admit, St. Kitts and Nevis would be right up there with Saba as a terrific place to escape in trying times like these.

e are also very, very happy to announce the publication of Rum & Reggae's Hawai'i, available later this month from this website (and the usual places). We are also quite proud of it and wish we had this book with us when we did our research (we would have spent a helluva lot more time having fun). By all means, get this book!!! Aloha!