e've been busy researching our newest pocket edition: Rum & Reggae's Virgin Islands, due out this winter. Mostly this means retracing our island steps to re-evaluate lodging and dining, but we're always on the lookout for something new. And occasionally we stumble onto something old that we've somehow overlooked on previous visits. It was only on our sixth trip to St. Thomas that we finally discovered Pavilions and Pools. The hotel is special because each of the 25 units is a one-bedroom apartment with a totally private pool on a terrace. There is a full kitchen and dining area, a living room and bedroom - the oversized bathroom has an open-air shower. The hotel has seen better days, but most of the wear and tear is superficial (sun-faded soft goods and chipped tile, etc.). Drawbacks: the rooms suffer a bit from road noise during the day, and there's little view to speak of. The (good) beach is a five-minute walk, and there's a small café on site for limited meals. This is a great place for self-starters who want to see St. Thomas with the independence of a private villa, but at a reasonable cost. Rates are VERY PRICEY; reservations: 800-524-2001; www.pavilionsandpools.com.

sland buzz centers around the expansion at the Ritz-Carlton St. Thomas, which debuted in November. There are 48 new guest rooms, located immediately north of the existing rooms, and they feature concierge service (but are otherwise pretty identical to the resort's original rooms). There is also a new spa, a salon, and a fitness center, as well as another pool. During our tour of the addition, we couldn't help but feel the original rooms were slightly more appealing, but perhaps with the addition of greenery and the subtraction of construction noise, these new units will be just as inviting. Rates are STRATOSPHERIC; reservations: 800-241-3333.

f course no visit to the USVI is complete without a stop on beautiful St. John, and our hideout on this trip was venerable Caneel Bay - our first stay at the property in five years. Okay, with 171 rooms, Caneel Bay isn't exactly a hideaway, but it's still our kind of place, even though they've installed air conditioners - a shock to the regulars! We don't normally care one way or another about a/c, but we appreciate resorts designed to take advantage of trade winds and cross-flow (as Caneel Bay was conceived, some 49 years ago). Alas, the cottages weren't built for a/c, so the cooling units are attached to the back sides of the rooms, and now you can't escape the whirring buzz of motors day or night. Management tells us that the chief complaint by guests received during summer months was lack of a/c, so perhaps it was necessary (and yes, we confess to having ours on during most of the stay), but we regret that this venerable resort has taken a step away from its natural design. But not everything is being mechanized at Caneel: An interesting health and wellness program has been initiated under the guidance of Jan Kinder, a New York-based nurse and music therapist who follows the teachings of Deepak Chopra. She talked Caneel's GM Brian Young into starting a program based on Eastern philosophies - now called the Self Centre - where guests of the resort participate in tai chi, meditation, and star gazing sessions. We missed out on this during our visit (we had work to do), but we'll definitely be making an appointment for a session before our next trip to Caneel Bay. Rates are RIDICULOUS (in the tennis view units); reservations: 888-767-3966.

We usually extol the Maho Bay Camp to anyone who desires a real back-to-nature experience on St. John. The same folks also have a second base of operation on the remote south coast, Concordia, perhaps the epitome in ecologically sensitive vacationing. Like Maho, these are wood-frame tent cabins, built on stilts, on a sunny, scrubby hillside overlooking beautiful Salt Pond Bay. But the cabins are somewhat more deluxe: Each has a mini-fridge, a flush toilet (of the composting kind), a solar-heated shower, and three double beds (sleeping six would be very tight). There are only 11 tents here so there's more privacy than at Maho, and every unit has a great view. It's a 10-minute walk down to the beach, but there is absolutely nothing else within walking distance, so you really need a rental car - the isolation doesn't work for all guests. There are also nine studios, which are attractive alternatives for those who want something more like four walls. These are spacious, with Mexican tile floors, wrap-around decks, open-air showers and fully equipped kitchens. The complex shares a good-sized pool, and there is a minimally-stocked commissary, but no restaurant or bar, another key difference with Maho. There are also lots of stairs to climb, so Concordia isn't ideal for anyone not spry on their feet. Also note that this part of the island is exposed to direct sun all day so it can get very hot (and there's no forest canopy for shade). Rates are NOT SO CHEAP; reservations: 800-392-9004; www.concordia-eco-tents.com.

You may recall us telling you last year that park rangers were issuing citations for nude sunbathing at Salomon Beach, St. John's de facto nudie cove. We're told by insiders the imbroglio is still a point of contention, but the issue seems to be on the back burner for the moment. During our - er, site inspection, there were several people using the beach au naturel (your trusty researchers excluded - no time!), and the "nudity prohibited" sign had been spray-painted over, which probably means rangers have a tough time explaining the policy to carefree nudists. If you enjoy Solomon in the buff, keep a wrap nearby. St. John looks as ravishing as ever - the beaches are wider and cleaner than we remember, the snorkeling is grand, and the island continues to do almost everything right in its approach to tourism.

he back-to-nature experience continues in the British Virgins, especially on Jost Van Dyke, where White Bay Campground offers cheap sleep on brilliant White Bay. Ivan and his daughter Darlene are the owner/manager of this seriously laid-back spot, popular with students, Californians and other free spirits. There are 15 very basic wood cabins, each with fan and a light, but without running water. There's a sun shower (that's a suspended solar-heated plastic bag with a spigot) located just outside each room, and shared bathroom facilities. You can also opt for one of 15 tents, which run just $40 a night in winter. There's a mix-your-own honor bar, and a Thursday night barbecue with live music, otherwise you'll need to traipse in to Great Harbour for meals, about 15 minutes away on foot. This spot is not for everyone, but we love the informality of this friendly hideout. Rates are CHEAP for cabins, DIRT CHEAP for tents; reservations: 284-495-9312.

The BVIs are still gorgeous, but so successful is the effort to attract tourists that these islands are increasingly crowded. Imagine our surprise to discover that Foxy's beach bar on Jost Van Dyke is now a slick operation that seats well over a hundred and boasts professional management! Further evidence of the popularity of Tortola in particular is the new traffic light installed at one Road Town intersection, the first to illuminate the BVIs. Even sleepy Virgin Gorda is showing wear-and-tear - some developer has bought a huge, prime piece of land on the north slope of Virgin Gorda Peak and has constructed an unsightly road that curls around the mountain slope like a horrid scar. Some serious consideration must be given to the future of these islands. They've always seemed to us to be a nest-full of golden eggs - without a master development plan, the may find their goose is cooked.

Enough carping - on to more soothing subjects. Namely spas, which have invaded the Caribbean this year like no other before. In addition to the aforementioned Ritz-Carlton St. Thomas facility, this winter, look forward to brand new spas at Little Dix Bay on Virgin Gorda, at Cotton House on Mustique, at the Hotel St. Barth Isle de France in St. Barts, and a 12,000-square-foot facility at the Four Seasons Nevis, to name a few.

Speaking of Little Dix and Caneel Bay, we told you how their Dallas-based management company Rosewood Hotels had taken over Jumby Bay in Antigua. We haven't toured the re-do, but the veil on Rosewood's $5.6 million renovation was scheduled to be lifted December 15. The 39-room property situated on a privately owned island a couple miles off the Antiguan coastline has suffered a series of management turnovers, complicated by relations with the island's truculent villa owners. The project included remodeling the guest rooms to add private gardens with outdoor tubs and showers, a new restaurant and fitness center. Sounds nice, and Peter Bowling, formerly of Cotton House, has been appointed Managing Director, so the operation may finally fall in to place.

s we head in to high season there is much airline news to report. Highlights include Delta's new daily service from Atlanta to Montego Bay, and Saturday flights from both Atlanta and New York to Aruba, and from Atlanta to St. Maarten. Delta's code share partner Air Jamaica is introducing a second daily flight from Los Angeles to Montego Bay in April - the current service is a red-eye out of L.A., while the new flights will depart L.A. at 7:30 a.m. (With all the Air Jamaica and other ads focused in the Los Angeles media of late, it appears the city has been targeted as a major new market for the Caribbean - note that MoBay is the hub for Air Jamaica's eastern Caribbean operation.) Memphis saw its first Caribbean service when Northwest began daily flights to Grand Cayman in October. And wonderful Tobago finally has service from North America - BWIA started Thursday flights to the island from Washington-Dulles. KLM has created a subsidiary airline called BonairExel, which will connect Miami to the Dutch islands. As a reminder, US Airways now flies to 13 Caribbean destinations this winter, including some hard-to-reach corners like St. Kitts (for which the airline is offering double miles through March 15) and Grenada. Meanwhile, cash-strapped BWIA is overhauling its operation after racking up $9 million in losses in the first half of 2002. In addition to wage cuts, Trinidad-based BWIA is actively discussing a merger with Antigua-based LIAT, the regional carrier. Let's hope that the sum of these two parts is at least as good as the two halves (but we do have our doubts).

n the other hand, the region appears to be headed for a good winter season, which everyone has had their fingers crossed for. A few anecdotal observations: The Four Seasons Nevis was booked for the 2002 Christmas season last March, and Spice Island Beach Resort in Grenada was sold out by August - the earliest ever for these two resorts, according to their managers. At the other end of the spectrum, in mid-November, owner Mary Davis of the inexpensive St. Thomas B&B Danish Chalet Inn, told me that she had received three bookings for March in one day, also unusually early.

f you're headed to the islands this winter, here are a few happenings on the calendar to watch out for: In San Juan, Puerto Rico, the San Sebastian Street Festival will take place January 17-20 and features parades, live music, local foods and oversized masks - the fête is designed to pay honor to the island's folk heroes... The 8th annual Mustique Blues Festival is set for January 22-February 5 - most concerts will take place on Mustique, but one night each will be performed on St. Vincent and Bequia; for more info go to www.basilsmustique.com/blues.htm... January 27-February 1 will find anglers from around the world competing at the 34th Annual Spice Island Billfish Tournament in Grenada - prizes totaling $37,000 are up for grabs, going to the fishermen who catch the largest blue marlin, sailfish and yellowfin tuna... The Air Jamaica Jazz and Blues Festival will take place January 30-February 1 at the Wyndham Rose Hall Resort in Montego Bay, Jamaica - for tickets call 800-568-3247.. Of course the big, big blowout is Carnival in Trinidad, which takes place March 2-3 - airline seats and hotel rooms are getting hard to come by, but check www.trinidad-carnival.com for more info.

We hope you all had a happy holiday season. We're headed to Grenada and the southern Grenadines, so we'll be back to you in the spring with a report on our visit.